CMS - Props - Pen - 2 Part Mould - Duplicate - Scale 1:1

 Semester/Term 2 - Props 4

2 Part Pen Mold

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2 Part Mold Replica Pen

This was another simple training assignment. The brief was to recreate a highlighter pen learning to apply a 2 part split silicon mold to make a fast cast model and paint it realistically.



Setting Up Mold Part 1


The procedure here was to make a block of Plastaline that a marker pen was pressed half way into.


The Plastaline  was bult up around the pen to create a very level floor halfway up the pen as flat as possible and right up against the pen so no gaps and the Plastaline is 90 degree to the pen with no undercuts and no extra material on the pen. Nice and neat.


When this is done made round registration indents in the Plastaline to make this and the second part interlock later.


Next build up foam board walls around to foam a box bound making sure its sealed with glue gun glue.


Risers and funnels were added to the pen at the highest points and undercuts so the risers can pour in the resin and all the air can escape with no trapped air bubbles.



Making the Silicon Mold Part 1


The next stage was to make a silicon box mold normally mixing thoroughly the silicon at 10 parts weight wise to 1 part catalyst making sure to scrape the sides of the cup and make sure there was no unmixed silicon.


That would not cure causing problems.


This is then poured from a height into a corner of the mold to work its way in minimising bubbles.


Making Mold Part 2


Once the silicon cured the mould is turned over the base removed and the Plastaline. All traces need to be removed.


Release spray is sprayed into the mold soaking the silicon and walls. Multiple layers of release need to be built up as each layer dries, the more the better.


Next make another box mold as before.


Separating the Parts Casting


When the second part is cured remove from mold the parts need separation. This may be difficult and take some time with various tools to separate the parts.


Any flash material on the inside of the mold where the pen cavity is can be removed.


More release spray can be added as well as talcum powder to minimise sticking.


The mold parts are then put back together and held with elastic bands or tape and resin mixed 50/50 by weight and pored into the funnel holes till filled. Its a good idea to swirl and tilt the mold to help release air.


Cleaning the Cast and Painting


 

When the second part is cured remove from mould the parts need separation. This may be difficult and take some time with various tools to separate the parts.


 Any flash material on the inside of the mould where the pen cavity is can be removed.


 More release spray can be added as well as talcum powder to minimise sticking.


 The mould parts are then put back together and held with elastic bands or tape and resin mixed 50/50 by weight and poured into the funnel holes till filled. It’s a good idea to swirl and tilt the mould to help release air.


When the resin sets open the mould and slice off the flash material, risers and pour funnels.


A stand is added to the base with a spot of glue gun, so primer spray painting cam be applied.


This is then sanded smooth and primer painted again.


The pen comes in two parts. The lid and body. Masking tape was applied to one end so the other could be lightly spray painted,


I had a lot of problems with dent, scratches and fingerprints possibly due to not letting layers dry properly and too many layers.


Tried to fix with filler and repainting with primer and spray paint. As running out of paint I had to try different colours,


Transfer decals were added by printing in reverse onto the wax paper from sticker sheets.

This is then applied by painting on gel medium onto the print then this is applied and pressed onto the object to be transferred into for 24 hours.


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